Since many of you have been asking how i keep my hair in such healthy, shiny condition while putting it through intense color processing, i've decided to post it for anyone else who may be interested.
To start, I would be lying if I said my genetics don't have anything to do with it. My hair is naturally fine, straight and a medium neutral blonde...this plays a HUGE part in the ability to change the color often. Since my hair has little eumelanin (which creates brown pigments) and little pheomelanin (which creates red pigments) synthetic hair color doesn't have much to attach itself to once placed inside my cuticle. But, because of my hair structure and effort to keep my cuticle closed (with products, cold water and treatments), i can retain color well, but easily remove it when i want to.
A lot more goes into hair color than most people think and it's much more of a physics equation than grabbing a box off the shelf and thinking "i'm going to get this color overnight." Many people make the mistake of using these boxes of permanent color over and over again, not having any idea how the color works, what it does to your hair or even considering what has been on your hair before!
BIGGEST MISTAKE: box color. the end.I understand that many women don't have the means to keep up with their hair color on a regular basis. I know that it can be expensive...I've been the devoted client (who wont touch her own hair), I've been the DIY client (whose screwed up the color and went back to the stylist for a fix), I've been the college student (with no money, a lot of courage and too much time) and I've been the stylist. However, I have never put box color on my hair.
If you are brave enough to DIY, my best advice: school yourself. research, ask questions, understand
why and
how.
Sally's (along with other beauty supply stores that allow you to purchase without a license) carries color that is as close to professional color that you can obtain without a cosmetology license. Purchasing from there will force you to learn more about hair color and what you need and should use. Most box color uses a high percentage of peroxide so it can lighten and deposit color simultaneously. However, the developer is typically not high enough to loosen the color molecules of synthetic hair color that was previously applied. This will always result in uneven coverage and cause more damage to parts of your hair that may not require it. When mixing color yourself and knowing why you would need 10 vol as opposed to 20, 30 or 40, not only saves your hair from over-processing but also allows better control in an even haircolor. Sometimes, however, this is really tough to do yourself and permits salons to charge up the ass for a color correction.
If this wasn't bad enough for box color, some of them (mostly mens and some womens...progressive dyes) contain metallic dyes which coat the hair shaft. Metallic dyes are almost impossible to remove because bleach is designed to open up the cuticle and break up or dissolve color molecules...this cannot be done easily if the color sits on top. Also, if you are thinking about getting a perm or relaxer and have colored with box colored at ALL (unless its been cut out), think again. Your hair will literally disinegrate and i've seen it first hand!
SO. learn about color, mix it yourself and follow directions VERY specifically.
The second most important part: cut your fricken hair! it doesn't matter if it is a fraction of an inch, trim your hair every time you color your it or wait no more than 6-8 weeks. If you are using heat tools on a regular basis, you are especially prone to breakage because of the drying effects these tools can have. Also, turn your flat irons down (i know you love your CHI's but no heat adjustment??? no way) , use your dryer on low heat and get serious about using a heat protection of some sort. There are plenty out there and many of them are not expensive.
just trim it. long hair is great but not if it's stringy and fragile.
lastly: baby iti know many of you like to go days without washing your hair...it helps to hold the color and style easier. however, my hair does not do well with this...if i wash my hair in the late afternoon on Tuesday, by Wednesday morning I have this nappy, seperated hair with oily bangs and a matte finish all over. i believe it's best to at least wash your scalp every day or every other day. As much styling products as we use, that much is building up onto your scalp and possibly blocking the way for your natural sebum (that helps to give your hair the shine and luster) to proceed. But the same goes for
overwashing which could create a dry scalp by stripping your hair of the natural oils
or creating excessive production of sebum,(mostly for you fine hair folk) so you must be careful.
condition, always. find the best conditioner for your hair and use it. deep condition once a week after a chemical process or if your hair is feeling dry...this is most important during the winter months or in dry climates.
sulfate free shampoos get the thumbs up from me as well as leave in protein treatments.
some of my favorite shampoos, conditioners and styling products:
Pureology (entire line)
Ojon (hydrating)
Lanza Healing ColorCare
Tigi's Dumb Blonde Conditioner
Redken Extreme AntiSnap (absolute life saver)
Redken Extreme Iron Repair
Ojon Daily Intensive Shine Treatment
Straight Sexy Hair Straightening Balm
So that's that! I hope this could help some of you and answer some of your questions. Thanks for being so lovely!
my website will be done in the next week or so, so check it out and save it on your browser.
www.JenniferDefy.com
and i'll leave you with one of my favorite hair moments!
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